From Tupiza to Uyuni Salar - photos 4

From Tupiza to Uyuni Salar:

- The "Arbol de Piedra" or stone tree. This is part of lava volcanic formations. In the background, a jeep is approaching...

- Superb landscape on our way to go to the 5 lagoons. The contrast of the colours was amazing,

- "Vicuna" or vicuna or wild lama, very difficult to take in pictures,

- The "Laguna Hedionda" with flamingos very easy to photograph as they are only thinking about finding food!

- Lee in front of the Laguna Hedionda.

From Tupiza to Uyuni Salar - photos 3

From Tupiza to Uyuni Salar:

- La "Laguna Colorada" or coloured lagoon whose orange-red colour is due to the presence of pigments of algae clorofitas and thin sediments deposited at the bottom of the lagoon. In the background, flock of flamingos...,

- Superb flamingos,

- Lee and me in front of the lagoon. Picture taken by Ewelina...

- Doretea took this picture of Ewelina taking a picture of us...surely there was something more interesting!

- The 6 of us during the tour: from left Martin, Ewelina, me, Lee, Jhovana and Dorotea. Superb ambiance and very friendly guides.

From Tupiza to Uyuni Salar - photos 2

From Tupiza to Uyuni Salar:

- Visit of the "Aguas calientes" or "hot water" in a beautiful landscape,

- Lee is having a bath in the hot water whose temperature was around 28-30C. I joined him for 10min and that was lush!!!

- The "Desierto de Dali" or Dali's desert which presents similar landscapes as the ones found in Dali's paintings. The name of this desert is a homage to Salvador Dali,

- La "Laguna Verde" or green lagoon whose colour is coming from the presence of a high content of arsenic and magnesium,

- Geysers are found in the geothermic land called "Sol de Manana" at an altitude of 5000m. Very impressive but with the smell of sulfur dioxide (or rotten eggs)!!!

From Tupiza to Uyuni Salar - photos 1

A special thanks to Dorotea to let me using some of her pictures

From Tupiza to Uyuni Salar (4days and 3 nights tour):

- Lamas are commonly found in the moutains. They have been domesticated during the era of the Incas,

- Donkey herds are also easily found in these mountains. There are still used by the locals to
carry all sorts of goods and luggage,

- Lunch break during the second day of our trip with our guides, Martin the jeep driver and Jhovana the cook (her food has been amazing all along the tour),

- Lee posing in front of a herd of lamas. Believe me that was very difficult to have the lamas looking in my direction, they were only taking care of grazing!!!,

- Superb landscape for the lunch.

Tupiza - photos 2

Tupiza more photos:

- What do you want? Traditional shop in the market place,

- Typical landscape around Tupiza. The picture was taken from the "Puerta del Diablo" which can be seen in a previous picture,

- David and Margaret, our new friends from Cheshire, went with us Sunday morning for a walk around Tupiza before taking the bus to Villazon,

- In front of a big cactus, common in these landscapes,

- 3 girls looking a map for direction. Did we find it? yes of course!!! Even if Dorotea looks very puzzled!

Joyeux Anniversaire Gaelle!!!!

Pour ma soeur Gaelle qui fete aujourd'hui ses 35 ans, un tres joyeux anniversaire venant de Sucre en Bolivie!!!!

To my sister Gaelle who is celebrating her 35th today, a very happy birthday coming from Sucre in Bolivia!!!!!

Tupiza - photos

Tupiza:
- Panoramic view of Tupiza from the mirador where a big statue of Jesus can be also seen ,
- En la Quebrada de Palmira, in front of the "Puerta del Diablo" or the Devil's door where the devil is supposed to leave during the nights...,
- La Valle de los Machos whose name is coming from the particular aspect of the stone...I am sure you found why!!,
- Lee and me in front of the "Canon del Inca",
- With our friends, Ewelina and Dorotea, and our new friends from Cheshire in England, Margret and David.

Tupiza or Tu Pizza....

The 9 hrs bus journey from Tarija to Tupiza was not that bad and I managed this time to get some sleep. At the bus Terminal, we met Ewelina at 5.00am, very early indeed! but she could not sleep so she decided to come to see us (she knew we were arriving early). At roughly the same time, an English couple from Cheshire, Margaret and David, arrived from Sucre and we started chatting. Once the tea shack opened, we had a delicious hot cup of tea and like us, Margaret and David had their own cup, tea bags, and spoons....a couple of true English people...only was missing hot water!!!
Tired, we set out for the hostel advised by Ewelina where the landlady also in charge of a tourism agency promised her a discount for the 4 days Tour to Uyuni Salar and for the rooms too. We spent the Saturday resting and shopping as we needed some warm clothes for the Tour, so scarf, gloves, wool socks, blankets joined the contents of our bags. During our visit of Tupiza, we found the funniest sign in the world: a pizzeria whose name was... Tu Pizza...Ha, Ha, Ha..!!! Then, we spent a nice evening sharing pasta and rice with Ewelina, Dorotea, Margaret and David as we were all staying at the same hostel. The Sunday was dedicated to visiting Tupiza's surroundings with amazing landscapes and at lunchtime we said goodbye to Margaret and David who were taking the bus to Villazon. We are happy to have met a such nice couple in their sixties. Good luck to them for the rest of their trip.
Monday morning, ready for the 4 days adventure, I realised that I had left my fleece in the hostel's kitchen the evening before. Unfortunately, we could not find it and after arguing for a long time with the landlady that the fleece had to be in her hostel, we had to leave for the trip as the jeep, Martin and Jhovana, the guids, were waiting...Disappointed to lose my fleece, the adventure started on the wrong foot...

Le voyage en bus de Tarija a Tupiza, qui dura 9hrs, ne fut pas si mal et j'ai pu cette fois dormir un peu. Au terminal de bus, nous rencontrames Ewelina a 5hrs du mat, tres tot en effet! mais elle ne pouvait pas dormir alors elle decida de venir nous rendre visite (elle savait que nous arrivions tot). Au meme moment, un couple d'Anglais de Cheshire, Margaret et David arriverent de Sucre et nous commencames a discuter. Une fois la petite baraque qui sert le dejeuner ouverte, nous avons bu un delicieux the chaud et comme nous, Margaret et David avaient leur propres gobelets, sachets de the, cuilleres...un couple de vrais Anglais!...il manquait seulement l'eau chaude!!! Fatigues, nous avons rejoint l'hostel recommende par Ewelina, ou la gerante aussi en charge d'une agence de tourisme, lui avait promis un rabais pour 4 jours du Tour pour le Salar d'Uyuni et aussi les chambres.
Nous passames le samedi a nous reposer et a acheter des affaires chaudes pour le Tour alors echarpes, gants, chaussettes en laine et couvertures rejoignirent nos valises. Durant notre visite de Tupiza, nous vimes l'enseigne la plus drole du monde: une pizzeria dont le nom etait Tu Pizza...Ha..Ha..Ha...!! Puis nous passames une chouette soiree a partager un plat de pates et de riz avec Ewelina, Dorotea, Margaret et David car nous restions tous au meme hostel. Le dimanche a ete dedie a la viste des alentours de Tupiza avec de superbes paysages et vers midi nous dimes au revoir a Margaret et David qui prenaient le bus pour Villazon. Nous sommes contents d'avoir rencontre un si gentil couple dans leurs 60ans. Bonne chance pour le reste de leur voyage.
Lundi matin, prets pour les 4 jours d'aventure, je realisa que j'avais laisse ma veste a la cuisine de l'hostel la veille. Malheureusement, nous ne l'avons pas trouvee et apres argumenter long temps avec la gerante que ma veste ne pouvait se trouver que dans son hostel, nous dumes partir pour le trip car la Jeep, Martin and Jhovana, les guides, attendaient...Decue d'avoir perdu ma veste, l'aventure commencait avec un gout sale...

Tarija - photos

Tarija:
- The San Martin bridge only for pedestrians. As you can notice, there is no water in the Guadalquivir river so no fishing possible!!
- A scale model of a plane in the centre of a large avenue. Not sure what this plane is doing here!
- A typical Boliviana with the round hat, the braids, the large colourful skirt and the apron!
- With our new polish friends, Ewelina and Dorotea, in front of a collection of guns in a cafe in front of the place Luis de Fuentes.
- The farmer market just outside Tarija. The family below the drawing was selling at least more than 50 types of grains.

Tarija (South of Bolivia) - where is the water?...(ou est l'eau?)

Once arrived at Villamontes, we waited the full day prior to take the overnight bus for Tarija. During the trip to cross the border, we met 2 nice polish girls, Ewelina and Dorotea who were going also to Tarija. We spent the day together looking at the market and waiting for the bus as there was nothing else to do in Villamomtes (it was very hot!). The 9hours bus journey has been the worst so far, the driver did not know how to drive a bus, the music was so loud that it was covering the noise of the bus and the road was absolutely horrendous, going up and down through the mountains!! Hopefully we did not eat too much before leaving Villamontes!!
Tarija or San Bernardo de la Frontera de Tarija (what a name!) is a town in the south of Bolivia and its main attraction is wine due to its Mediterranean climate. It is commonly regarded by Bolivian nationals and tourists as "the Bolivian Andalucia". At our arrival at the bus terminal, the visit to the small tourist information kiosk was pleasant with a very nice guy who gave us all the information necessary. On our way to the hostal, we questioned the taxi driver about the activities around Tarija and of course I asked if it was possible to fish in the Guadalquivir river as Lee likes fishing. Laughing, the taxi driver answered that was not possible because there was no water!!! I felt a little ridiculous but after all how I could know there was no water as that was the end of the winter!! We spent our 2 days resting after the awful bus journey and visiting the city and the surroundings. We also spent some time with our new friends and Lee was happy as Dorotea was a fan of photography too. The 2 girls left Tarija one day before us for Tupiza and I am sure we will meet them again there...

Une fois arrives a Villamontes, nous attendimes toute la journee pour prendre le bus du soir pour Tarija. Pendant le voyage pour passer la frontiere, nous avons rencontre 2 sympathiques Polonaises, Ewelina et Dorotea, qui allaient aussi a Tarija. Nous passames la journee ensemble, visitant le marche local et attendant le bus car il n'y avait rien d'autre a faire a Villamontes (il faisait tres chaud!). Le voyage qui dura 9heures a ete le pire depuis le debut, le chauffeur de bus ne savait pas comment conduire un bus, la musique etait tellement forte qu'elle couvrait le bruit du bus et la route etait absolument horrible, montant et descendant dans les montagnes!! Heureusement que nous n'avions pas beaucoup mange avant de quitter Villamontes!!
Tarija ou San Bernardo de la Frontera de Tarija (quel nom!) est une ville au sud de la Bolivie et son attraction principale est le vin a cause de son climat mediterraneen. Elle est communement percue par le peuple bolivien et les touristes comme "l'Andalousie bolivienne". A notre arrivee au terminal de bus, la visite du petit kiosque pour informations fut agreable avec un gars super sympathique qui nous donna toutes les informations necessaires. Durant le trajet en taxi pour aller a l'hostel, nous avons pose des questions au chauffeur regardant les activites a faire autour de Tarija et bien sur, j'ai demande si c'etait possible de pecher dans le fleuve Guadalquivir car Lee aime pecher. En riant, le chauffeur repondit que ce n'etait pas possible car il n'y avait pas d'eau!!! Je me sentis un peu ridicule mais apres tout comment je pouvais savoir qu'il n'y avait pas d'eau car c'etait la fin de l'hiver!! Nous passames les 2 jours a nous reposer apres l'horrible voyage et a visiter la ville et les alentours. Nous passames aussi du temps avec nos deux nouvelles amies et Lee fut content car Dorotea etait une fan de photographie comme lui. Les 2 filles quitterent Tarija un jour avant nous pour rejoindre Tupiza et je suis sure que nous les reverrons de nouveau ici...

Waiting to cross the border...photos

Waiting to cross the border:

- With my new friend Timoteo with who we waited the bus from Filadelfia to Mariscal. Timoteo is born in Filadelfia and is a truck driver going from Filadelfia to Villamontes in Bolivia,

- How cute is that! One of the four adorable puppies we met at the Customs area. This one was the most timid,

- Lee with his favorite puppy,

- A unexpected guest in the sink from the toilet room!

- With the four puppies which were very playful!

From Paraguay to Bolivia - adventureous

While we were staying at Filadelfia, we collected information to how to reach Bolivia. Buses were going from Filadelfia to Bolivia but at 5am. Monday morning was to early for us as I had not yet fully recovered but Tuesday morning was too late as we did not want to pay an extra hotel night. So we decided to take a minibus during Monday evening to reach Mariscal Estigarribia, a town where the immigration post was situated then to catch a bus coming directly from Asuncion. I need to mention that Monday afternoon in the hotel, we met an old English woman who was awful, ignorant, patronising...and who was on her way to take the early bus on Tuesday. She wanted to talk to Lee for information but he left the reception room because of her behaviour and I stayed pretending that I was not talking english! The nice woman at the reception was lost with our stratagem but played the game after I explained to her the story. She agreed that this woman was being very unfriendly. So obviously we wanted to avoid her as much as possible... but I bet you that we will see her again!
We arrived at Mariscal at around 8pm, got the leaving stamp and here we have been told that the bus for Bolivia will be coming at 2-3am. At Filadelfia they told us 1am. Kindly, the customs guards offered us seats inside the customs area where toilets and cold shower were available. Here we found 4 adorable puppies with which we spent most of our time waiting for the bus. We managed to have 1hr kip before the arrival of the bus from the Rio Paraguay company. I mention this company because the bus driver asked us 150,000guaranis or 20pounds for the 6hrs journey. Normally that should had been 3times cheaper. As we had no other option than waiting for the next bus, we took this bus. The road was acceptable on the Paraguayan side but what a change when we reached the Bolivian side! From asphalt to dirt track! The bus stopped at the immigration post where we get our arrival stamp. Finally after 1hr30 more we reached Villamontes our first stop in Bolivia but not our final destination...

Pendant notre sejour a Filadelfia, nous reccueillimes des informations pour savoir comment atteindre la Bolivie. Des bus allaient de Filadelfia en Bolivie mais a 5hr du matin. Lundi matin etait trop tot car je n'avais pas totalement recupere mais mardi matin etait trop tard car nous ne voulions pas paye une autre nuit d'hotel. Donc nous decidames de prendre un minibus lundi soir pour atteindre Mariscal Estigarribia, une ville ou se trouve le poste d'immigration puis de prendre le bus qui vient directement d'Asuncion. Il faut que je mentionne que lundi apres-midi a l'hotel, nous rencontrames une vieille Anglaise qui etait abominable, ignorante, parlant mal aux gens de l'hotel...et qui etait sur le point de prendre le bus de mardi matin. Elle voulait parler a Lee pour avoir des informations mais il quitta la salle de reception a cause de son comportement et je suis restee faisant croire que je ne parlais pas anglais! La gentille receptionniste etait perdue avec notre stratageme mais joua le jeu apres que je lui eus explique toute l'histoire. Elle fut d'accord que l'Anglaise etait vraiment pas tres sympathique. Donc forcement nous voulions l'evitee le plus possible...mais je vous parie qu'on la reverra de nouveau!
Nous arrivames a Mariscal a 8hr du soir, eumes notre cachet de sortie et ici on nous dit que le bus pour la Bolivie arriverait a 2-3hr du matin. A Filadelfia, on nous dit 1hr du matin. Gentillement, les agents des douanes nous offrirent des sieges dans l'enceinte des douanes ou des toilettes et douche froide etaient disponibles. Ici nous trouvames 4 adorables chiots avec qui nous passames notre temps a attendre le bus. Nous avons reussi a dormir 1petite heure avant l'arrivee du bus de la Compagnie Rio Paraguay. Je mentionne cette compagnie car le chauffeur de bus nous demanda 150,000guaranis ou 30euros pour le voyage de 6hrs. Normalement ca aurait du etre trois fois moins cher. Comme nous n'avions pas d'autre option que d'attendre le prochain bus, nous primes celui-ci. La route etait acceptable du cote paraguayen mais quel changement du cote bolivien! Du bitume au chemin de terre! Le bus s'arreta au poste d'immigration ou nous eumes notre cachet d'entree. Finalement apres 1hr30 de plus nous arrivames a Villamontes notre premier arret en Bolivie mais pas notre destination finale...

Filadelfia (west of Paraguay) - or the german town... (ou la ville allemande...)

Filadelfia was our final step in Paraguay before joining Bolivia. Filadelfia is the heart of the Mennonites settlements which arrived principally from Germany, Canada and Russia in the 1920's for a number of reasons: religious freedom, the chance to practise their beliefs without hindrance, the quest of land...Paraguay welcomed the emigrants as after the Triple Alliance War the vast inhospitable region of Chaco was almost uninhabited. They were offered to keep their religion, their language, to administre their own institutions in exchange to colonize an unproductive area due to lack of water.
The bus journey from Concepcion to Filadelfia has been so far the worst for me. The heat was unbearable, I had a big cold and I fell sick during the 7hrs trip and to add, we had a flat tyre which added 30min to our journey! Arriving to Filadelfia was like arriving in the middle of nowhere. 40C outside, sand everywhere, well clouds of sand due to the wind and of course german names for the streets...We decided to splurge for a hotel as I was not feeling well and we wanted to have some nice rest prior to reach Bolivia so 4stars hotel with swimming pool. We spent our 2 days swimming and relaxing with our new Swedish friends, Erik and Andreas that we met during the bus journey. We did not bother going to visit the surroundings as it was during the week-end and as you know nothing happens on a sunday!!! After the second day I was feeling better and we were ready to reach Bolivia...

Filadelfia etait notre derniere destination au Paraguay avant de rejoindre la Bolivie. Filadelfia est le coeur de l'implatation des Mennonites, emigrants qui arriverent principalement d'Allemagne, du Canada et de Russie dans les annees 1920 pour des raisons variees: liberte religieuse, la chance de pratiquer leur croyance sans obstacle, la quete de territoire...Paraguay accueuillit ces emigrants parce qu'apres la guerre de l'Alliance Triple, la vaste region du grand Chaco etait presque inhabitee. Ils purent garder leur religion, leur langue, administrer leur propres institutions en echange de coloniser une region improductive du a un manque d'eau.
La journee en bus de Concepcion a Filadelfia a ete la pire pour moi depuis le debut. La chaleur etait insoutenable, j'avais un gros rhume et je fus malade pendant les 7hrs du voyage et pour ajouter a tout ca, nous eumes un pneu creve qui ajouta 30min a notre voyage! Arriver a Filadelfia fut comme arriver au milieu de nulle part. 40C a l'exterieur, du sable partout, enfin des nuages de sable a cause du vent et des noms allemands pour les rues...Nous decidames de deborder sur le budget pour l'hotel car je ne me sentais pas tres bien et que nous avions besoin d'un bon repos avant de rejoindre la Bolivie alors hotel 4etoiles avec piscine. Nous avons passe les 2 jours a se relaxer et a la piscine avec nos 2 nouveaux amis suedois, Erik et Andreas que nous avions rencontres dans le bus. Nous n'avons pas pris la peine de visiter les alentours car c'etait le week-end et comme tu sais, il ne se passe rien le dimanche!! Apres le deuxieme jours j'allais mieux alors nous etions pres pour rejoindre la Bolivie...

Concepcion - photos

Concepcion:

- Cows crossing one of the main road. This was fairly common,

- Lee with his only fish!! You can't see it? Left of the knife...You found it? Yes that the baby "surubi" or local fish! Lee put it back in the water after the picture,

- Church in the Chaco island with a nice blue sky orior the storm,

- Horses in front of the Rio Paraguay, picture taken from the Chaco island,

- Sunset on the Rio Paraguay with in the back the Chaco island.

Concepcion - Big Storm...(gros orage)

Our first step direction Concepcion was to take the oldest bus I have ever seen!!! The roof was only made by the metallic part, half of the windows were missing and replaced by cardboard and inside everything was falling over...but producing an amazing noise, we were going pretty fast, so fast that at any moment we were expected the engine to explode! It left us in one piece at a junction town called Yby Yau (I am sure you are thinking what a bizzare name, me too!). An other bus and this one the slowest in the world brought us to Concepcion during the evening.
A quick phone to hotels and we were in a horse-and-cart as no taxi was available. That was our first experience in this kind of transport and not sure we liked it as we were doing the attraction of the town and we like being anonymous!!! We tried one of the restaurants specialising in roasted chicken and we had a full juicy and organic chicken with drinks and salad for only 5quids! But no more chicken for me for a while!!!
The next day finding the Tourism Office was a nightmare as nobody in the town knew where it was! Finally we ended in the City Hall talking with the director of the Tourism who gave us the biggest map of the town we ever had (and his phone number on it especially for me, please ask Lee about that!). It was a rolled calender of 2008 with the map of the town!!! We went fishing on the Rio Paraguay but except big pieces of algae and a baby surubi (the local fish), nothing but the locals were not more lucky! I started to fill the first symptoms of a big cold...
The next day was dedicated to the visit of the island "Chaco" just in front of Concepcion. 5min in a small rowing boat and hello Island. The heat was absolutely intolerable and once we reached the other side of the island, a big storm started. Gladly, local people offered shelters. Inside the house, well better to say a shack, 2 beds, a small cupboard and 9people were living with chicken, dogs, goats, parrots... They offered a seat and together without any talk we were watching the torrential rain lightening and hail stones during 2hours. At this momemt, we never thought we will be leaving the island. What an experience and what so nice people...Finally, the rain slowed down and we could return to Concepcion. As the rain started again for all the evening, we had some rest before catching the next bus at 7am for Filadelfia.

La premiere etape pour aller a Concepcion a ete de prendre le bus le plus vieux que j'ai pu voir de ce jour! Le toit etait constitue seulement de la partie metallique, la moitie des fenetres manquaient et etaient remplacees par du carton et a l'interieur tout se disloquait...mais produisant un bruit assourdissant, nous allions assez vite, tellement vite qu'a tout moment on pensait que le moteur allait explose! Il nous laissa entiers dans une ville appelee Yby Yau (je suis sure que tu penses quel nom bizarre, moi aussi!). Un autre bus et celui-la le plus lent du monde nous amena a Conception pendant la soiree.
Un rapide coup de telephone a des hotels et nous etions dans une charette car il n'y avait pas de taxi disponible. C'etait notre premiere experience dans ce mode de transport et pas sure que nous l'avons appreciee car nous fimes l'attraction de la ville et nous aimons passer incognito!!! Nous essayames un des restaurants specialises dans les poulets rotis et nous eumes un gros poulet bio avec boissons et salades pour seulement 7euros! Et plus de poulet pour moi pour un long temps!!!
Le jour suivant, trouver l'office de tourisme fut un cauchemar car personne dans la ville ne savait ou il se trouvait! Finalement nous avons fini a la mairie discutant avec le directeur du Tourisme qui nous donna la plus grande carte d'une ville que nous n'avons jamais eue (et par la meme, son numero de telephone marque dessus, demande a Lee a propos de ca!). C'etait un calendrier de 2008 qu'on roule avec dessus la carte de la ville!!! Nous sommes alles pecher sur le fleuve Paraguay mais a part des gros paquets d'algues et un surubi (le poisson local) bebe rien d'autre mais les pecheurs locaux n'etaient pas plus chanceux! Et j'ai commence a ressentir les premiers symptomes d'un gros rhume...
Le jour d'apres a ete consacre a la visite de l'ile Chaco en face de Concepcion. 5min en canoe et voila. La chaleur etait intolerable et des que nous eumes atteint la rive opposee de l'ile un gros orage eclata. Heureusement les gens de l'ile nous ont accueillis chez eux. A l'interieur de la maison, ou plutot de la masure, 2lits, une commode et 9personnes vivaient ici avec poulets, chiens, chevres, perroquets...Ils nous ont offert un siege et ensemble nous regardames la pluie torrentielle, les eclairs et la grele tomber pendant 2hrs. A ce moment-la, nous pensions que nous ne quitterions jamais l'ile. Finalement la pluie devint plus fine et nous pumes retourner a Concepcion. Quelle experience et que des gens sympathiques...Comme la pluie recommenca pour toute la soiree, nous nous reposames avant de prendre le bus suivant a 7hr du matin pour Filadelfia...

National Park of Cerro Cora - photos

National Park of Cerro Cora:

- Panoramic view of the Park from the "Mirador",

- Grave of the Marshall Francisco Solano Lopez who died at Cerro Cora in 1870 during the last battle of the Triple Alliance War,

- Very big grasshoper,

- Peccaries crossing the pathway in front of us,

- From the owl's family, this one was standing near the landing track waiting for a potential plane...!