Monday, 29 September 2008

Buenos Aires - Final thoughts (dernieres pensees)

Well, Buenos Aires is over!! And what to remember? European type atmosphere, very cosmopolitan but dirtier than european capitals as you need to keep a constant eye where to put your feet (Lee will not contradict me on that!) and as rubbish is flooding the streets after 5pm especially in the town centre. But the town is relatively safe; in 2 weeks we have never been bothered even during the protests (policemen are also posted at each block corner).
The city was full of interesting points: Avenue of "9 de Julio" for its amazing width and its Obelisco; San Telmo district for its quiet and serene atmosphere and the "Plaza Dorrego" with its "Joie de vivre", la Boca district with its coloured houses and its football team, Palermo and its parks and its evening life. However, the Plaza de Mayo was surprisingly disappointing; there was no real "wow" factor when we arrived to the Plaza and we were left thinking "That's all?!!!". A Plaza is supposed to be the heart of the city where people can meet and relax but this one was missing splendor and a sense of purpose. There were only a couples of trees, a statue and lots of barriers dividing the Plaza in two parts; the barriers are probably there for safety reasons but why? as the Casa Rosada is separated from the Plaza by a road...
To conclude, Buenos Aires is very charming, full of small "cafes and bars" which are serving amazing good steaks and it is worth to spend 13hrs by plane to visit it...

Buenos Aires c'est fini!! Et que garder en memoire? Atmosphere de type europeen, tres cosmopolite mais plus sale que les capitales europeennes car tu dois constamment regarder ou tu marches (Lee ne me contradira pas sur ca!) et parce que les poubelles foisonnent dans les rues apres 17h specialement dans le centre ville. Mais la ville est relativement sure; en 2 semaines nous n'avons jamais ete embetes meme pendant les manifestations (des policiers sont postes aussi a chaque coin de rue).
La ville etait remplie de lieux interessants: l'avenue "9 de Julio" pour sa largeur incroyable et son "Obelisco", le quartier San Telmo pour son atmosphere tranquille et sereine et la "Plaza Dorrego" pour sa joir de vivre, le quartier de la Boca pour ses maisons colorees et son club de foot, le quartier Palermo pour ses parcs et sa vie nocturne. Cependant la Plaza de Mayo a ete decevante. Il n'y a pas eu de "Woaw" quand nous sommes arrives, pensant "c'est tout?!!". Une Plaza est supposee etre le coeur de la ville ou les gens se rencontrent et se relaxent mais a celle-ci il manquait la splendeur et le sens de la fonction. Il n' y avait seulement que quelques arbres, une statue et pleins de barricades divisant la Plaza en deux; les barricades sont probablement places ici pour des raisons de securite mais pourquoi car la Casa Rosada (le palais rose) est separe par une route...
Pour conclure, Buenos Aires est tres charmante, avec plein de petits "cafes et bars" servant de superbes steaks et ca vaut la peine de faire 13hr en avion pour la visiter...

French translation requested!

Due to the popularity of my blog, I am now publishing it in 2 languages! The French translation will be added at the end of each post.

Comme mon blog est tres populaire, je publie maintenant en 2 langues! La traduction francaise sera ajoutee a la fin de chaque message.

Sunday, 28 September 2008

Note for my avid readers

Hello, sorry for the delay on updating the blog but that will be done in the next couple of days...The adventure continues...

Tuesday, 23 September 2008

Football argentino...




La Boca Juniors against Tigre...

La Boca Juniors Stadium...there were more people here than this...honest!!!! Photo taken 30 minutes after the end of the game. We were waiting to be let out of the Stadium. Next picture is just before the kick off...probably the most exciting part of the game!!!! Bottom left picture from the stands where we were watching "football"! Then finally who want a nice "asado de la parilla" (barbecued steak) from the best restaurant in Argentina...well from the name anyway...

Palermo...




The Palermo district which is named after Juan Domingo Palermo from Sicily (who bought all the land from the Spanish in 1590).

The "Jardin Japones" in the side of the park of "3 de Febrero" en Palermo district. The picture of the carp is the nod to the Delves just to show Trev what big fish look like (Lee's mum and Dad will understand!!!). Then the lakes in the park which is the green heart of the city where pedalos can be rented. Final picture represents the Plaza Cortazar with the flea and craft market. Please note the still usefull 2CV car...well here at least...

Buenos Aires - Day 9 to 13

Continuing our visit of Buenos Aires, we had a nice walk in the "Parque de 3 de Febrero" in the Palermo district. We went first to visit the "Jardin Japones" which was far to be totally Japones...Lots of coloured big carp, some traditional trees and couple of Japanese type houses and that is all... surrounded by massive buildings and two main avenues, not very Zen...Especially that the avenue of "Libertador" displays 10 lanes for only one side, very impressive when the cars are waiting for the green light and you are better to get quickly out of the road!!!! In the same area, you can see the "Columna Persa" donated by the iranian government and replica of the columns found in Perseapolis. Then we walked around "los lagos" or lakes where boats for the water or roller blades for the road can be rented for playtime. Obviously, Lee and I stayed away from them as we did not want to go back home wet or finish the day at the hospital!!! Unfortunately, the "Roseda" was closed for refurbishment. The "Rose Garden" is the heart of this park with 12,000 rose bushes and various small monuments. The "Puente blanco" or "white bridge" can be seen from the side of the lake. The Roseda is also "famous" for being the meeting location of the transvestites during the night! I don't know where they are currently meeting...

We left the green area to join Palermo Viejo and the "J.L.Borges" street. This street was named after the famous writer whose family lived in one of the house which has now disappeared. At the end of the street you can find a nice little place called "Plaza Julio Cortazar" which is the heart of Palermo Soho. You will have noticed the english name of this area where accesories and high fashion clothing shops can be found in every corner. I know some of you who will be delighted to spend some time here...Nice little flea and craft market at the centre of the Plaza with nice cafes around.

From here we went back to the Recoleta District crossing by Plaza Guenes where the "Iglesia de Nuestra Senora Guadalupe" can be admired but we were disappointed that the top of the church was not illuminated so the pictures were not great. Time to realize we were hungry, we decided to look for a nice restaurant we had spotted the day before in the Montserrat district. We spent 2 hours walking without finding it, we finally ended up having a pizza in a pizzeria chain!!! Yes I know!!! We should have written the address down, please trust me, we will not make the same mistake twice!!!

Sunday was football day...Time to have a quick look again to the Plaza Dorrego flea market in San Telmo, we were out for the Boca Juniors Stadium where the local club was playing against El Tigre. After buying tickets from a tout (for twice face value but still only costing a tenner!), we were inside the Stadium in the stand behind the goal in the second tier. We spent the game standing like everybody shouting for the Boca Juniors to be more efficient!!! What a waste of occasions in front of the goal!!! The most amazing was when the referee whistled the end of the first half everybody sat down!!! Yep if you leave the bench you lose your place!!! Boca Juniors lost the game 3-2 and had a man sent off (all before half time!) but what an experience with the crowd and all in peace. No trouble or anything like that, good...except that the wind was freezing and I could not move my fingers!!!

From then, we are chilling out in the terrace with the sun back...packing for our departure to Parana...

Thursday, 18 September 2008

Strike (peaceful!) to support bolivian government in bolivian crisis (15-09)





Various views of the strike to support the bolivian government in the bolivian crisis. Lots of different associations were present walking in avenue Corrientes and manifesting in front of the bolivian embassy. Lee was in the photographs crowd, first to have the best picture!!! No photographer was harmed in the taking of these pictures!!!!

San Telmo district




Plaza Dorrego is in the centre of the San Telmo district. It is hosting the Feria de San Telmo on Sundays with the flee market, exhibition of tango dancers in the street and unusual a girl proposing free hugs (she had a huge success with young people)

Avenue "9 de Julio"

The widest avenue in the world with 140 meters of width and 7 lines each side. Takes few minutes to cross it. Named after the anniversary date of Argentina (9th July 1816). The picture was taken from the Plaza de la Republica where there is the Obelisco.

Puerto Madero


Puerto Madero.
The most modern district of Buenos Aires. Named after Eduerdo Madero, commercial charged by the government to build a new harbour (1882). Now full of hi-tech buildings and high standard buildings. One of the most expensive place to leave in Buenos Aires due to the exceptional views and his situation near the town center.

El Caminito en La Boca

House en el Caminito where houses are painted in bright colours

Boca Juniors Stadium

Boca Juniors Stadium with typical yellow and blue colours. Found in La Boca district (called "the mouth" as mouth of the small river Riachuelo, south of Buenos Aires City)

Wednesday, 17 September 2008

The Obelisco


Here I am in front of the Obelisco situated in the centre of Plaza de la Republica at the intersection between the avenues 9 de Julio and Corrientes. The Obelisco was built in 1936 to commemorate the 400th anniversary of the first founding of the city.

Casa Rosada


Casa Rosada or "Pink Palace" probably the most famous monument in Argentina. Residence of the argentinian president but better known for hosting the speech made by Evita (also where Madonna sang "don't cry for me Argentina"). The colour is coming from the idea of the President Sarmiento en 1873 to mix red and white, colours of the two main political parties.

Buenos Aires Days 3-7

Still in Buenos Aires, continuing our visit of this amazing city without any disaster in 4 days!!! Do not know how we managed that...really...especially with Lee around...yes he is worse than me...really...

We went to Recoleta to visit the Cementary where Evita is buried, nice graves very expensive but why if nobody is coming to put any flower....Talking about flower, there is one metallic and massive in the Plaza de Naciones Unidas (South of Recoleta district) called "Floralis Generica". This is a gift from an argentinian architect to the city of Buenos Aires. The petals are open every day at 8am by an electrical system and are closed in the evening. The flower stays open exceptionally during 4 nights at specific dates. Very impressive...In the same area, there is the law university, a huge building where you can find a swimming pool, a fitness area...We bought sandwiches in the cafeteria to remember the good time when we were students...

Then we had a very good time in the "LA BOCA" district, home of the football team "Boca Juniors" where Maradona started is career as footballer (for those who are following football). The Stadium and the road around are in yellow and blue, amazing!! Imagine St James Park painted in white and black stripes...will look like a giant zebra crossing!!!! We walked in the "Caminito" full of coloured houses, of people trying to sell you the "souvenir", well sure they are buying them to the same supplier as they are all identical! That was the same for the pictures and paintings, Lee was not very impressed as all the paints were quasi identical, nothing unique except when we went to visit the studio of a toothless and long haired old man. There were paints representing himself like "Don Quixote" and in other emblematic figures. The most strange was a paint representing the Unicorn with the cavalier being Mickey Mouse (with the right colours!). Never thought finding that in this place!!!

Sunday, that was the famous flee market in "Plaza Dorrego". What a life! All the roads around the place were full of small stands selling everything!! You could find from a spoon to a candelabra and of course traditional tourist gifts. Even a girl was giving free hugs!! In every road, there were tango dancers, demonstrating the beauty of the dance and also encouraging people to have a go. We did not try as we did not want to bring shame to England...Very nice atmosphere !!! We were only disappointed by the lack of original pictures and paints. Nothing very bright, coloured...well we will try next Sunday...

Then we went to visit the Puerto Madero district. The sky was very gray so the harbour area looks quite dark. Lots of hi-tech buildings adjacent to the "shabby" railway area, contrast often found in South America. We went to see the ferry for Montevideo in Uruguay but the price for a day visit was not very attractive so we decided not to go to Uruguay.
On our way back, we joined a massive strike of various argentinian and bolivian organizations showing their support to the bolivian government in the crisis which affects in this moment Bolivia. Four of some richest federal states of Bolivia (North and North east) wants their independence and fights have started between the police and the rebels supported by the USA. Well we were not here especially for politics but to take good pictures and as you know Lee is quite professional now so he was very happy to use all his big lenses (he changed probably ten times the lenses for the best shots) and that was very exiting to be part to a so massive manifestation. I joined Lee taking pictures with my "modest" camera but after 2 hrs my hands were frozen so needed good cup of tea, the english tradition that we are respecting with lots of fervour!!!

Today it is a quiet day as our legs and feet are feeling sore after all the miles done in a week...Internet, TV, music, book..well just relaxing on the balcony...well for me as Lee has just gone for more pictures of San Telmo and possibly more strikes...

Friday, 12 September 2008

Buenos Aires - Days 1 and 2

Hey we are in Buenos Aires!!!!

That took us 13hrs to reach the city from Roma but here we are!!! What a journey on Tuesday!!! Train from Doncaster to London King Cross, train to Heatrow then flight to Roma then to Buenos Aires. I am affraid to say that the Italian are loyal to their reputation: take your time, be late and be desorganised!!

The flight to Buenos Aires was alright if you consider that staying 13hrs in a plane sleeping with old men snoring to make the plane vibrating, smelling the nice feet of young men who has not change the socks for 2 weeks (at least!!). But wait the best is to come...

We nicely landed to Buenos Aires, I said nicely because due to the thick fog we have not realised that we were touching the tarmac!!! And temperature was 8C, goodness!! that was less than in England, could not beleive it...Caught a bus then a cab and spent 1h30 in the traffic just to make 35Km!!, I thought we will never arrive as the Argentinian are driving as crazy so please for all of you who are thinking that I am a crazy driver, banish that from your head because I found worst than me!! Finally, we were one street from our appartment and to celebrate that, Lee just put his foot on a dog´s shit, a very soft and brown one!!! Welcome to Buenos Aires!!!

Time to take a shower (and clean the shoes only for Lee :-)), to see the well known "Plaza de Mayo", to buy some food, we were back to the flat as we were quite exhausted. After some nice pasta (to go to Buenos Aires to eat pasta...), time to go to bed. Well too simple!!! I kicked the glass of wine which was on the bedside cabinet, tried to catch it before it breaks, kicked the bedside light which felt in the floor breaking the light bulb and blew the electricity!!!! For a first night I did not too bad!!! Wine was everywhere on the floor, on the bed sheets and the headboard (hopefully I saved the glass!), no electricity in the building, good score...So at 10.30pm, equipped with our headtorches: clean the floor, clean the headboard, remove the bedsheets to soak and look for the electricity panel. I am sure that everybody would like to do something more interesting at 10.30pm!!! Could not find the electricity panel so we went to bed hoping to catch the landlady on the morning. We found her on the morning and apparently it is commun that the electricity blows, good for us so we did not have to explain the events from the evening before. Really good for us! And to add on that it is raining with 16C!!! I left England thinking I will finally have some tan but that is no more on my plans...

We went to visit the "Plaza de Mayo" where Eva Peron made her talk, San Telmo area (we are staying in this district), the cementary in Recolate famous for its expensive and extravagant graves all in marble and for hosting Eva Peron´s grave, the Florida and Santa Fe streets, the "shopping streets" where you can find more MacDonalds and Burger King outlets than in all England!!! We tried to catch the metro to go back home after 51/2hrs walking but when we saw the crowd in the trains (there was no empty centimeter in the floor!!), we were happy to walk 11/2hrs more...(surely not our feet!!).

Today it is sunny and we are stuck on the internet cafe sending mails and updating my blog!! What a shame!! Don´t worry we are now going to carry on the discovery of Buenos Aires.

So I see you then for more adventures!! As we have some issue to make the computer working at home, I will post some pictures as soon as Lee will have sort out that (sorry but you can expect next month...)